My Big Fat Greek Islands Guide

Moonlighting as your Greek islands fairy Godmother...

A loud and proud philhellene, my love for Greece is well-documented. Evere since my first ever ‘adult’ holiday to Zakynthos aged 18 I’ve had a weak spot for Greek beaches, blue-shuttered buildings and olive oil drenched salads. These days its less foam parties and ouzo shots and more lazy days on the beach, church-spotting and ceramic-collecting which to be honest has always been a bit more my vibe deep down anyway. Thankfully, my husband loves Greece as much as me so we’ve averaged exploring two islands a year since we’ve been together and have no plans on stopping anytime soon however I think we might have finally found some ultimate favourites we’ll be going back to. Whatever you want from a holiday, there’s an island or two (or threee) for you…. Of course, the below is just my take so is in no way conclusive or complete, just favourites so far. There’s still lots on my list too… Koufonisia, Amorgos and more of the Pelponesse are all bookmarked for the future. But until then, the below would be my go-to recommendations. I’ve been to more but either wouldn’t recommend (Naxos wasn’t a fvaourite but great for kite-surfers) or it’s been so long I don’t feel confident giving recommendations anymore as so much might have changed (Milos and Spetsis).

Perviolas hotel in Santorini

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For those in search of the simple life…. Folegandros
I’m reluctant to share how much we loved Folegandros but for you lovely lot, I will. It’s tiny (everywhere is no more than 15 minutes in a car), super chilled and has one of the loveliest choras I’ve come across with big, wide plazas filled with buzzy tavernas and narrow cobbled streets with hippy-chic little shops. There’s not a beach club or sunbed-for-hire in sight; this is a bring your own umbrella and towel and stay until 7.30pm place. Even the islands ‘main beach’ Agali felt chilled and low key with just a few casual fish tavernas and cafes dotted around. If you want to head somewhere even quieter, jump on the local boats that run from Agali and the port to the likes of Agios Nikolas (book lunch at Papalagi) and Katergo for 10 euros return. They vary in degrees of sandy and stony but all of them are heaven to soak up the sun and swim all afternoon.

Even if you don’t stay there, go and watch the sunset from Anemomilos hotel in town for insane views and a great cocktail list (one of the only places on our recent trip I actually had a good gin and tonic) or walk up to the monastery above chora for a private screening of the fiery skies. In Chora, our favourite meals were To Zimraki (italian, pizzas and cocktails), Elena’s garden (romantic and delicious) and To Barbounaki (great fresh seafood and gte the brocoli salad) - we actually found the food on Folegandros to be really excellent and half the price than Patmos. We also went for daily ice creams at Parasagas and Pounta or Prickly Pear for coffees and brunches.

Folegandros Chora

Stay:
Airbnb - we moved here and it felt like home straight away. Great host, simple but tasteful, perfect location and terrace for morning coffee.
Anemomilos - charming, beautiful views and right in chora - without doubt the best hotel on the island.
Airbnb - This looks very pretty, authentic and with an epic view.