All Hail the Return Mini Break

Discoveries and favourites from Paris and Lisbon

I’ve realised one of my favourite things in life is going back to cities I’ve done extensively before but haven’t been to in years. There’s no pressure to hit up the big sights or ‘must-do’s’. You don’t need to rush around every gallery and museum, or make reservations at every restaurant on CN Traveller’s ‘best of’ list. Been there, done (some) of that. You can just faux-live in the city for a weekend. Which is exactly what we’ve been lucky enough to do for two weekends this month, first in Paris and most recently in Lisbon. Well technically we actually only had 24 hours in Lisbon and went on to spend 2 days in the Portuguese countryside (more on that dreamboat of a spot soon).

Getting breakfast, stopping for coffee, wandering to some shops, finding a market, getting dinner somewhere, all those perfect weekend ingredients except you’re in a different city and you’ve put miles between you and the pile of laundry and the dishwasher that needs emptying.

Here are a few stand-out favourites from our weekend(s) away to bookmark for your next ‘let’s make believe we live here’ weekend.

Mini-break mini-thoughts

• We actually ate wayyyyy better in Lisbon/Alentejo than we did in Paris. I said what I said!

• My favourite way to get round both cities is walking, walking, walking and averaged 25K steps a day! Plan your outfits around your comfiest trainers/shoes and bring blister plasters. Saying that, bolt and uber in Lisbon is cheap as chips.

• Plan days by neighbourhood to get the most out of the trip. I use the Amigo trip planner to add spots I want to go to and then organise them by seeing them on a map. So helpful. Use my code ‘LUCYWILLIAMS’ if you want to join the app. I’m really loving it.

• Book restaurants well in advance unless they’re specifically walk-in only. I booked over a week in advance for some places and the only seatings were 6.30pm and 9.30pm.

• It’s taken me 37 years but I can now travel carry-on but I always pack a Longchamp Pliage or something similar for shopping/excess baggage.

Paris

La Bonne Pioche - I bought so many bits from here. In addition to the pre-loved clothing (the curated rather overwhelming kind), they sell lots of lovely ‘bits’ from independent brands. I came away with resin hair clips, beautiful handwash, recycled glass jewellery and a handmade ceramic incense holder. Oh and some pre-loved Dries. Definitely worth a visit.
Preclothed - a beautiful designer vintage store on the left bank. Not a place for a bargain but the minimalist edit is incredibly chic and there’s plenty of treasures well under 1000 euros. If you like Desert Vintage in New York, you’ll love this.
Merci - I first got introduced to Merci when I worked in trend forecasting (another life!) and all my editors would go crazy to get in there on trade show trips. It’s still my favourite place to shop in Paris and I always leave with something. They do great, well-priced glassware and have a great selection of jewellery and casual weekend-wear French brands.
Chat gpt really stepped up on this trip. I asked it to find me a brocante on the Sunday and narrowed it down with some questions - ‘which one will have the best antiques?/which one is likely to be the least touristy?’ and it sent us to one in the centre of Republique. It didn’t disappoint. The best kind of mix of junk, curios and genuine treasures. Take cash!
Clamato - The best restaurant we went to in Paris for sure. Buzzy vibe, small plates and platters of delicious seafoood and crudo… Walk-ins only.
Gramme - Go here before midday to snag one of the best choc chip cookies you’ll have.
Brut Archives - Paris-based brand for vintage, workwear-inspired pieces. Not sure if it’s menswear or designed specificallly to be unisex but it works for all. Love the vintage look long-sleeved tees and caps.
Cortado - Went back here twice for iced coffee. They do almond milk!
Landline - a very cute independent homeware store with chic little bits for the kitchen, the garden, kids and classic French chore jackets and mules.
Les Suites Cinabre - Ticked off a bucket list stay as mentioned here. If you are looking for the ultimate sexy hotel suite, this is it. Pierre Frey fabric-lined walls, a bathroom suite with in-built sofa seemingly designed solely for lounging around in a silk robe, mirrored ceilings, velvet, 70s-style chaises and Suzanne Kauffman bath products on tap. Ooh la-la. It’s very, very special and feels like a proper apartment complete with mini kitchen and lavish dining room. There are only two suites and while it’s full-on luxury, it’s worth noting it feels more like a beautiful Airbnb than a hotel as such. There’s no room service, no snacks in the mini-bar and breakfast is a simple affair of pastries and fresh juice, but it sure does it look and feel good.

Lisbon

Magnolia - If you have one night for dinner in Lisbon go here. Or go for brunch, lunch, a glass of wine. Whatever you go for, you’ll like it. It’s casual, the small plates of food are delicious and they have great natural wines. Plus the people watching is fantastic. I’m still thinking about the fish bun and the pet nat.
Neighbourhood - Great coffee and breakfast burritos.
Oficina Marques - Great ceramics store and workshop. They just did an insanely beautiful candle collaboration with L’Object if you’ve got a spare £1000 for a candle. I was more in the market for a 30 euro bowl and 10 euro trinket dish which they also do!
Despozito - Gutted that we rocked up here 10 minutes after it closed but from looking through the windows, it’s definitely worth a visit for beautiful, artisan-made ceramics and handicrafts. It’s from the people behind A Vida Portuguesa which is also a must-visit. Yes it’s a bit of a chain now but the product offering is so good. One of those stores I feel like a kid in a candy store in and even the smallest wooden spoon or tin of fish feels covetable. Can’t make it to Lisbon? They have an online store too.
Hotel das Amoireras - I find Lisbon hotels kind of tricky - not many of the ‘it’ hotels push my buttons aesthetically to be honest. We did a night at this little boutique hotel this time and I’d definitely recommend it. The rooms are smaller (our bathroom was pretty teeny) and a bit darker than they look online but the location is lovely, the decor simple but chic and the breakfast was great. It’s charming and old-worldy only with marble bathrooms and no chintz.
Monka - Cute little cafe for brunch. We got iced raspberry matchas and delicious heirloom tomato toast.

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Until next time, Lxxx